Right temperature in my soldering station

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Right temperature in my soldering station

Postby pu2clr » Sat Nov 24, 2012 2:48 am

I would like to know what the best approach to soldering the PCM3060.
If iron soldering, what the right temperature that I have to use in my soldering station.
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Re: Right temperature in my soldering station

Postby AE9RB » Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:38 am

There is no "best" approach. If anyone says their technique is best, they mean "for them". You can use reflow ovens, hotplates, hot air tools, embossing guns, shrink wrap guns, and even soldering irons for SMT. I probably missed some too.

Here's a guide to soldering SMT: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1Q2XT ... 3hGeVhER0E
73 David AE9RB
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Re: Right temperature in my soldering station

Postby G0XAR » Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:36 pm

I am using a 50 watt temperature controlled iron set to 285 Centigrade. The iron tip is 2 mm and the solder I use for sm parts is Pb, 0.25 mm diameter rosin cored. For parts like the sockets and through hole components you need a bigger diameter solder.

For components with small leads I find the best approach is to put a small amount of solder on a pad. Then, using a pair of tweezers, hold the component on the pre-soldered pad and touch it with the tip of the iron. You should see the solder melt, as soon as this happens take the iron away, but keep the tweezers on the component until the solder solidifies. With luck the component will be soldered to the one pad. Check that the remaining pins are over pads. Then solder the pins. If the are not over the pads you need to re solder the first pin and move the part a little until they are. This sounds complicated and difficult but is neither once you get a little practice. If your eyes are as old as mine you will need a magnifier of some sort to see what you are doing. I use something like these

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/28103377 ... sbar&cbt=y

If you bridge solder between 2 or more pins it is a sure sign you are using too much solder. You need to get used to cleaning your iron tip after every joint whith this fine work. If you do have bridges you can remove them with desoldering braid.

If you use a high powered iron get used to working quickly, too much heat can destroy a part. I find a 50w temp controlled iron works best for me. I tried smaller irons but sometimes they need too much time on the joint which will destroy a part. I have an 8 watt iron designed for SMT work which I find unusable. I think it is meant for use with the board on a heating plate. I never tried this. On the Peaberry it would be no good because there are components on both sides of the board.

If you find problems with a joint you may find that a dab of flux on it before reheating the joint will work. With these 0.25 mm solders there is very little flux and if it burns off when you first try and make the joint you need a little more.

Hope this helps, as always, your milage may vary,

Steve G0XAR
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Re: Right temperature in my soldering station

Postby bfahle » Thu Dec 27, 2012 4:33 pm

I use the following procedures, and have had much better luck since switching from just straight rosin-core solder. For capacitors and resistors, I tin the iron and apply heat to one pad, and apply solder to the pad just enough to form a small drop. Then I apply a small dab of chipquick flux to the other pad, but no heat or solder yet. I use tweezers to position the capacitor next to the pad, then re-heat the solder and slide the capacitor into place. I hold it in place and remove the iron. Then I pick up the tweezers and close them, and push on the top of the capacitor with the tweezers while I reheat the pad. This makes the capacitor snap into place flat to the board and adjacent to the pad rather than elevated a little by the solder. Then I apply heat to the other side and apply a little solder until it just melts and puts another drop on the other end of the capacitor. Then if necessary I add solder to the original pad. This makes a very reliable and clean joint on both ends.

For more complex jobs, I put chipquick flux on every pad, then drop the chip into place before adding any solder (this includes even transistors with 3 prongs). Then I put a dab of solder onto the iron, and just touch it to one pin of the chip. This will at least tack it into place, though I'm not happy with the joint at this point. Then I go around and heat each of the other pins and apply a tiny dab of solder. I use the smallest pinpoint of my iron for this work rather than the 3mm wide tip. Usually the solder comes from the iron onto the joint, but that seems to work since there is flux in place. I also go back and redo the original joint in the same way once the chip is secured by other pins. I do all this at 340c on the temp-controlled iron. Heat is not bad if you work quickly; I find lower temps don't melt the solder. YMMV
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